Valentino Valentina. Penhaligons Peoneve "It adds a sunny sparkle to the top notes and blends harmoniously with everything from other citruses, to fruits, florals, and woods.". Roos & RoosMentha Religiosa Today, iris plants happily grow everywhere from Europe to the Middle East, Asia and north Africa. Sometimes bitter orange is referred to bigarade but many of us know it best as the too-sour-to-suck-on Seville orange, used for making marmalade. Dior Miss Dior Chrie David & Victoria Beckham Signature for Her How well do you know your perfume ingredients? Dolce & GabbanaThe One for Men Soft, floaty, feminine: this so-pretty floral note has just a whisper of actual peachy fruitiness about it. But Illolahia adds that musk "is rarely used today because musk deer are endangered," and that chemists have been refining synthetic alternatives since the late 19thcentury. Marc Jacobs Daisy Eau So Fresh Well, yes: the fragrant use of olive goes back millennia: the early Arab perfume-makers used it as a base in many of their scented creations, and the Egyptians used it to steep jasmine blossoms, to produce a fragrant oil. Honeyed and hay-like are other descriptions that perfumers give to saffron, which works especially well in Ambre-type perfumes. GoutalQuel Amour bellflowers offer up an essential oil which has been described as reminiscent of a clear spring day. Different ionones have subtly different characters, though, ranging from soft violets in full bloom through the iris/earthy/woodsiness of an ionone variation by the name of methyl ionone. Gucci Guilty Also known as storax, both names for benzoin. Yves Saint Laurent Paris France is still the epicentre of production, though: more and 80,000 kilos of lavender are grown each year. The good news, however, is that plantations in Australia are now coming on-stream, producing sandalwood oil of high quality to the relief of noses. Miller Harris Jasmin Vert Taif rose is especially prized in perfumery, beloved for its deep fragrance which is even more intense than the better-known Damask rose to which its related. Generally, its part of a cocktail of fruit notes perhaps a dash of mango, a squirt of raspberry, a squeeze of guava, Celine Dion Chic Cartier Dlices de Cartier It is dual, it has a multifarious seduction. Its spicy, aromatic and surprisingly leathery, in a perfume. Chanel No. Illamasqua Freak Extrait de Parfum, Quince was used by the early Arab perfumers, by the Greeks and Romans: they steeped the fruit in oil, and made a perfume from its flowers that was called Melinum. It also has the rosy notes of tea leaves," says perfumer Jacques Huclier. Jo Malone London Grapefruit Rochas Femme Frederick Malle Dans Tes Bras The resin produces a scent similar to that of balsam or lavender. Famously, myrrh was one of the three gifts brought to the infant Jesus by the Three Kings. How did the tangerine get its name? Vivienne Westwood Boudoir (Plus the fougre family, which is mostly mens scents. Atelier Cologne Rose Anonyme Through the rise in popularity of fruity-floral fragrances, apples been having a moment in the sun. With such huge amounts of timber felled to extract teensy qualities of oil, its no wonder that Brazilian rosewood trees which are grown in the rainforests of Brazil, Mexico and Peru are now protected, under CITES (the convention which safeguards endangered flora and fauna). (Leading to the original name for perfume: per fumum, or through smoke) Myrrh was a key ingredient in the ancient incense kyphi, used to fumigate ancient Egyptian temples. Steam distillations used to extract the essential oil. Galbanum oil immediately brings sophistication to a perfume, thanks to its combination of earthy, floral hyacinth tonalities, and a bitterness evocative of gentian," says perfumer Jean-Christophe Hrault. Some flower just once a year, for a single night a blink-and-youll-miss-it pleasure that happily can be captured in a bottle and enjoyed 24/7, Dior Addict Paco Rabanne Ultraviolet The wood itself is used for flooring, carpentry, for crackling log fires but in the scented world, with only the lightest touch in actual perfumes for women, and especially men. This oil obtained from ambrette seedswhich come from hibiscushas a musk-like odor. (Although eugenol is also produced synthetically, nowadays.) "Jasmine notes are powerful, green fruity facets reminiscent of honeysuckle. Developers like Ray Matts always used large amounts of it in his fragrances as it gave a huge trail," says perfumer Olivier Gillotin. As well as featuring widely in soliflores (so-called single note fragrances, which are often actually a lot more complex than that), lily of the valley works its magic in many other fragrances, used to open up and freshen the other floral notes in a blend as a clever writer on the Perfume Shrine blog puts it, much like we allow fresh air to come into contact with a red wine to let it breathe and bring out its best. Penhaligon's Bluebell. Creed Vetiver Not the ones we now buy in supermarkets, which have become such a popular design statement. Clarins Eau Dynamisante Givenchy Ange ou Demon Its burned today in Catholic churches and Anglican high church ceremonies and perhaps as a result, its a love-it-or-hate-it ingredient, depending on whether you were forced to sit through endless sermons and hymns on Sundays. You might know it best from Caribbean jerk seasoning, or from Middle Eastern cuisine (or Thanksgivings pumpkin pie spice mix) and in perfumery, allspice offers a similarly warm, sensual, nutty quality. ', He continues: 'I do not use that many fruit chords in my creations, butraspberry is just perfect with roses. Clive Christian V for Women Prada LEau Ambre. Mostly, though, when you see elder listed as an ingredient, thatll be a synthetic version. So long as the lily flowers you buy are indeed fragrant, theyll pump their sweetness into the air without fading for a couple of weeks at a time, Cacharel Anas Anas Its one of the most desirable firewoods, producing a highly aromatic smoke thats brilliant for smoking meat and tobacco and which perfumers seek to capture and recreate, quite aside from the delicate crispness of the plants much better-known fruit. I sometimeswonder why the combination of fruits and berries with flowers are soenchanting. Escentric Molecules Molecule 03. Just sometimes, a fragrance is described as being indolic - which is pretty unhelpful if you dont work in the perfume world. But theres also a teeny touch of vanilla to oak (synthetic vanillin, used in many baked goods and confectionery, is derived from wood shavings! M.Micallef Ylang in Gold When you smell something sweet, powdery, fluffy-little-cloud-like in a perfume, chances are theres a touch of heliotrope in there. From that rotten wood, an oil is made and then blended into perfume. (Without realising that the stamens of the true crocus can be used in our cooking), Agent Provocateur Agent Provocateur Guerlain Eau de Lit Yves Saint Laurent La Collection Yvresse. (It helps to dispel parasites hence its name) In fragrances, wormwood is also bitter and green and so used with the lightest touch, generally (in mens but also womens scents), because its pungent and intensely herby. It starts a conversation with the "still small voice of calm".'. (Theyre left in a cool, dry place, and need protection against fungus and insect attack which would destroy the producers valuable harvest.). Boadicea the Victorious Adoration Its pricy the third-costliest spice in the world (after vanilla and saffron) but so aromatic that only a touch is needed of the essential oil thats steam-distilled from the seeds of the Elletaria cardomomum plant. Tauer Perfumes06 Incense Rose. Were half-way to falling in love with this ingredient for its exotic name, never mind the sweetly floral, vanilla-y fragrance which can be so captivating, in a perfume. Gwen Stefani L I love the warm leather tones of this quality of styrax - but itneeds careful handling, though. Its a-little-bit-musky, a-little-bit-spicy, a-little-bit-powdery qualities become even more versatile in the hands of perfumers: they know how Cashmeran almost melts into many types of ingredients to add an extra, almost tactile sensuality to perfumes within a wide range of fragrance families. Do smell deep, though, and see if you can detect intrigue beneath the soft surface. A little dry, but with hints of pine in there, too. Laura Mercier Ambre Passion We like this comment from Perfume Shrine, a great scent blog: When people complain I cant smell a thing!, its not necessarily anosmia, but too much ionones!, Goutal La Violette It goes especially well with musks, fruits and flowers. Linalool breaks down when it comes into contact with oxygen, it becomes oxidized and can cause allergy. Memo Moon Safari Its a key ingredient in Bay Rum aftershave/scent, and often used in mens perfumery but also to spice up a chypre fragrance, or in a mysterious ambre, Several names for this: Curry Plant, Herb of St. John, Immortelle (which you might know from the LOccitane skincare range) - and botanically, Helichrysum augustifolium. First off, how to pronounce it: gwy-ack. The dried leaves sweet-smelling, a touch earthy and hay-like are solvent extracted from the plant. Its incredibly versatile, in a perfumers hands: it softens, balances, fixes (adds staying power and keeps a fragrance on the skin, while stopping other short-lived ingredients from disappearing too fast). The jazz chanteuse Billie Holliday would tuck a gardenia blossom behind her ear before performing. Donna Karan Be Delicious Dolce & Gabbana The One The galbanum plant produces the gum resin asafoetida, used in Indian cooking (as well as perfumery), which you can read about here. Others comment that it can smell a bit like the wood in old churches, or Brazil nuts. Frederic Malle Iris Poudre You may also be familiar with it from body products and even fabric conditioners: Cashmeran clings, and doesnt rinse out well, leaving traces of its sensuality on the skin after showering, or your bedlinen after laundry day. Atropa Belladonna. Diptyque Eau Duelle Isabella RosselliniManifesto Almost cool-as-a-cucumber, a touch metallic - yet fresh and new-mown-grass-y at the same time. (Although it was also used by physicians to treat fever, headache and hysteria.) LArtisan Parfumeur Th Pour Un Et Like quite a few ingredients, though, heliotrope/heliotropins use has been reduced and restricted lately by the International Fragrance Associations regulations (IFRA for short), and some iconic, heavy-on-the-heliotrope fragrances including LArtisan Parfumeurs glorious Jour de Fte have sadly been discontinued, as a result. Theres barely a scent out there which doesnt feature a type of jasmine somewhere in its construction but all jasmines arent created equal, and (dare we say it) theres a lot of snobbery about jasmine, with fragrance houses falling over themselves to boast of the priceless quality of their jasmine, There are actually over 200 species of jasmine but two members of the beautiful white-flowered jasmine family are most prized. 5 Eau Premiere Savvy perfumers know exactly which to use to get their desired effect, Elizabeth Arden Green Tea (Hugh de Slincourt wrote that, in The Way Things Happen.). The name comes from the Latin: resedo means to heal, and the Romans used it as a charm against ailments. Le Labo Labdanum 18 Cartier Le Must de Cartier "Created in the 1960s, it brings a strong note of "pure water", salty ocean air and is also reminiscent of watermelon. In perfumery, though, grass delivers a sweet, herbaceous scent maybe not quite like walking past a house where the grass has just been cut, but delivering a gust (or a whisper) of outdoorsy freshness, nonetheless. But if the Christmas trees the most familiar member of the pine family, its just one of 115 varieties that grow mostly in the Northern hemisphere. The task of the rose-picker is to pick the dew-drenched blooms before 10 a.m. at the latest, when the sun evaporates their exquisite magic. Strangelove deadofnight Tom Ford Oud Wood. Unable to marry him due to her divine nature, she transformed herself into a plant that would provide pleasure and happiness that plant was the Vanilla vine. Fields of flax are heart-stoppingly maybe even car-stoppingly beautiful, with pale blue flowers wafting in the breeze. Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire To me, it smells confident, sexy, feminine, while exuding modernity through its green facet," says perfumer Natasha Ct. The plant itself is found in Africa, Asia, the Caribbean, areas of the US like Florida, and Australia. Matre Parfumeur et Gantier Grain des Plaisir The note has a mystical air to it: in the language of plants, its been linked with prosperity, fidelity, virtue and positivity. The dried roots also make their way into pot pourri. Often, a synthetic note of benzyl acetate IS used by perfumers but in reality, benzyl acetate is also found naturally in many flowers, including ylang-ylang, gardenia, hyacinth and jasmine. Its the leaves which can be distilled: the resulting oil is very high in a chemicall called eugenol. ), Many of us have picked a honeysuckle blossom and sucked the honey from the base but alas, honeysuckle gives up its dewy sweet nectar a lot more readily than its smell, and the yield of essential oil from these plants is really low. Lanvin Arpge (Were going to try it out on our cashmere, and will report back.) Say papyrus and you probably think of an ancient form of paper, crafted from this member of the sedge (grass) family as an alternative to using wood (its botanical name is Cyperus papyrus). The extract comes from the peel of the fruit, and is grapefruit-y and green at the same time. Miller Harris Cologne 1888 Guerlain Vetiver Cartier Eau de Cartier Extrme Says 'nose' Julie Mass: 'I use cassis to give a delicious, moreish touch. Used in perfumes since ancient times, vetivers more popular than ever and features very, very widely in the base of fragrances because it works brilliantly as a fixative and so far, nobody seems to have come up with a satisfactory synthetic alternative. The juice tastes less sour than lemon, but more bitter than grapefruit which explains why bergamot has become known for its aromatic essential oil, rather than as something we eat for breakfast (Although bergamot is used in Earl Grey tea), Its scent is fruity-sweet with mild spicy hints, and youll encounter it as a top note in compositions within most of the fragrance families male and female. This oil obtained from ambrette seedswhich come from hibiscushas a musk-like odor Asia, Caribbean! And the Romans used it as a charm against ailments in Africa, Asia, the Caribbean, of..., Asia, the Caribbean, areas of the fruit, and the Romans used as... Clear spring day Not the ones we now buy in supermarkets, which is mostly mens.... The ones we now buy in common perfume ingredients, which is mostly mens scents I love warm... And the Romans used it as a charm against ailments and surprisingly leathery, in a perfume rise popularity... Very high in a perfume the `` still small voice of calm ''. 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